Ask anyone who has spent a month in Da Nang where they lived, and there is a good chance the answer is An Thượng. It is a neighborhood that works: the beach is close, breakfast is everywhere, and you can live a whole week without getting in a car.
This is our street-level view, from the terrace at 64A Mai Thúc Lân.
Where is An Thượng?
An Thượng sits on the east side of the Han River, in the Ngũ Hành Sơn area, between the beach road (Võ Nguyên Giáp) and the main inland road (Ngũ Hành Sơn). Many of its streets are simply numbered, An Thượng 1, An Thượng 2 and onward, with named streets like Mai Thúc Lân running through the grid. On a map it looks like a neat block of lanes just behind the long line of beachfront hotels.
Getting to An Thượng
- From Da Nang International Airport: usually 15 to 25 minutes by Grab car, depending on traffic and bridges.
- From the city center and Han Market: around 10 to 15 minutes across the river.
- From Hội An: roughly 40 to 50 minutes by car up the coast road.
- Around the neighborhood: walk. Everything is close, and Grab motorbikes cover the rest.
Morning: coffee and breakfast
Mornings are An Thượng's best hours. Swimmers come up from the beach, laptops open on café tables, and the smell of coffee hits every corner. You can choose a bánh mì from a cart, a bowl of mì Quảng at a noodle shop, or a long brunch with eggs and smoothie bowls.
Our guides to the best breakfast in Da Nang and brunch in Da Nang go into detail.
Afternoon: heat, shade and the beach
From late morning in summer the sun is fierce. Locals rest, travelers hide in cafés and spas, and the beach is quiet until about 15:30. Then My Khe fills up again for the golden hour swim, which is one of the best things to do in the city.
Evening: food and nights out
- Seafood on the beach road. Restaurants along the coast keep live seafood in tanks and price it by weight. Always ask the price per kilo before you order.
- Korean food. Korea is one of Da Nang's largest visitor markets, and An Thượng has plenty of Korean restaurants and cafés.
- Vietnamese favorites. Bánh xèo, grilled skewers, hotpot and local beer at plastic-stool spots.
- Bars. Craft beer, cocktails and live music, mostly around the central lanes.
Staying in An Thượng
The good: walkable, beach on the doorstep, endless food, easy for first-timers, and a strong community of long-stay travelers.
The honest part: it is more international than local, prices are higher than in residential districts, and some lanes are loud at night. If you want quiet, pick a room on a side street rather than above a bar.
Practical tips
- ATMs, pharmacies and convenience stores are on almost every corner.
- Laundry shops wash by the kilo and usually return clothes the same or next day.
- Motorbike rental is everywhere, but ride only if you are licensed and experienced. Grab is easier.
- Sidewalks double as parking, so you will often walk in the street. Stay alert.
- Rainy season (roughly September to December) can bring heavy downpours and short-lived street flooding. See Da Nang in the rainy season.
Our corner of An Thượng
Oh la la! is at 64A Mai Thúc Lân, under the bordeaux awning, open every day, usually 08:00 to 18:00. Expect a sunny street terrace with rattan chairs and plants, egg coffee and Benedict, and Minh, the owner, who comes to the tables, jokes, and sometimes sends over coconut chips. Some evenings we host Talks, conversation nights where strangers become friends.
